Villa Mozart review: Impeccable food trumps indifferent service

Villa MozartI've long thought that good service can overcome fair food, but not the reverse: If a diner feels neglected, even the finest cooking will have a tough time winning you over. Then I had another dinner in this intimate and understated dining room with an Italian-leaning menu from Andrea Pace. His herbed grissini have to be the best table decoration in town, and his signature rye ravioli with fresh spinach and mountain cheese is such a comfort, I order it even though five other pastas c...